Checchino dal 1887
The birthplace of Roman cooking, in the heart of Testaccio, Checchino has remained in the Mariani family for five generations. Classics, such as coda alla vaccinara (braised oxtail) and abbacchio alla cacciatora (braised suckling lamb), were invented here. Still on the menu today, they have been adapted to create lighter dishes for the modern palate. Reservations are recommended - it is packed throughout the week, normally with locals. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Via di Monte Testaccio 30
Tel: (06) 574 3816.
Il Convivio Troiani
Run by three brothers, Il Convivio is one of the city’s foremost temples to food and innovation. An equal emphasis is placed on vegetable, fish and meat options, and some of the dishes stem from classic Roman fare, but the basic ingredients are always combined with something unexpected according to the whim of youngest brother and chef Angelo, and turned into something sublime. Three elegant rooms, two with murals on the walls, and well-trained wait staff make for a truly rounded gourmet experience. Dinner only, closed Sunday.
Vicolo dei Soldati 31
Tel: (06) 686 9432.
Hostaria dell’Orso
Milanese superstar chef Gualtiero Marchesi is at the helm of the Hostaria dell’Orso located in a medieval palazzo which was an inn for centuries and experienced its headiest days in the 1960s. Now a posh restaurant (but also piano bar and disco), it offers a skilled take on Italian haute cuisine such as l’agnellino da latte arrosto, fave croccanti e tortino di melanzane (roasted baby lamb with crunchy broad beans and aubergine cake) and spiedino di gamberi, bastoncini di polenta di ceci e salsa alle olive (prawn brochette with chickpea polenta sticks and olive sauce). Dishes can be ordered à la carte or from different menù degustazione (set-price menus). No lunch. Closed Sunday.
Via dei Soldati 25C
Tel: (06) 6830 1192.
La Pergola
Sublime food and breathtaking views put this roof garden restaurant among Italy’s ‘Top 20’. The chef, Heinz Beck, shapes the menu according to seasonal produce and personal inspiration - recent successes include ravioli al finocchio con alici (ravioli with fennel and anchovy) and agnello ai carciofi in crosta di pane con consommé di agnello e spuma di pecorino (lamb with artichokes in a bread crust served with lamb consommé and pecorino mousse). There are separate menus for wines, water, teas, herbal teas and coffees. The cellar stocks some of the best (and most expensive) wines in the world. Dinner only, closed Sunday and Monday.
Cavalieri Hilton Hotel, Via A Cadlolo 101
Tel: (06) 3509 2152.
La Rosetta
Regarded as Rome’s top fish restaurant, La Rosetta lies in a quiet side street close to the Pantheon. Upon entering the wood-panelled room, with its wooden furniture and red upholstery, customers receive a complimentary glass of champagne. One might begin with antipasto misto (a selection of cold seafood delicacies), followed by strozzapreti con calamaretti (pasta with baby squid), to be rounded off with scorfano e verdure grigliate (grilled sea scorpion and spinach). The wines are truly classy. Overall very expensive so if you want to experience seriously well-selected fish and well-executed fish cuisine, go at lunchtime when there are some affordable menus. Closed Sunday.
Via della Rosetta 8
Tel: (06) 686 1002.
Dal Bolognese
Popular with politicians, artists and businesspeople, this restaurant has a smart summer terrace overlooking Piazza del Popolo, and a classic winter dining room decorated with contemporary paintings. The menu features high-quality mainly meat-oriented dishes from Bologna, notably beef fillets, mortadella, sausage pasta and bollito misto (mixed boiled meats). Vegetarians need not worry however, as the excellent tortelloni con ricotta e spinaci (pasta filled with spinach and ricotta) prove that the kitchen can turn out tasty meat-free dishes too. For dessert, divine sorbets from the southern region of Campania are served in scooped-out fruit. Closed Monday.
Piazza del Popolo 1
Tel: (06) 3611426.
Dal Toscano
The Bruni family has run this friendly trattoria for three generations. Close to the Vatican, Dal Toscano is known for traditional cooking and speedy service. The interior is simple (vaulted ceilings and plain wooden furniture) and in summer there is a leafy terrace. Both Tuscan and Roman specialties, such as funghi porcini arrosto (roast porcini mushrooms) and abbacchio scottadito (grilled suckling lamb), are on offer. The Chianti, a robust red, is first-rate. Closed Monday.
Via Germanico 58-60
Tel: (06) 3972 5717.
Enoteca Capranica
Housed within a 15th-century renaissance palazzo close to the Parliament, this elegant restaurant retains old-fashioned charm, with wood-panelled walls and chintzy covered chairs. Ideal for business lunches, there is a small room reserved for private meetings. The menu features refined Mediterranean dishes, such as crema di astice e finocchi con pepperoncino (lobster and fennel cream soup with hot red pepper), and pesce spada con olive nere, capperi e pomodorini (swordfish with black olives, capers and cherry tomatoes). On a recent visit the classic crème brulée dessert was made very interesting with some authentic vanilla flavoring and mango ice-cream as an accompaniment. Closed Sunday, no lunch Saturday.
Piazza Capranica 99
Tel: (06) 6994 0992.
La Tana de Noantri
This is a very popular venue which, despite being situated in the heart of the most touristy part of Trastevere (behind Piazza Santa Maria), has kept up a very high standard of solid Roman cuisine since it opened in 1965. All the dishes use only the very freshest of ingredients, especially the many fish main courses. Another of their specialties are tagliolini alla tana, thin egg tagliatelle made with tomatoes, mushrooms and fresh oregano. Outdoor seating is available in summer. Closed Tuesday.
Via della Paglia 1-3
Tel: (06) 580 6404.
